Islamic Architecture

I am taking an Islamic Architecture class for kicks, giggles and credit. The buildings we cover are in Egypt and Greater Syria, and although we unfortunately cannot see the Great Mosque of Damascus or the Dome of the Rock in person, we can (and do!) traipse off to various Cairo sites. Today was our second field trip during which we failed to visit al-Gayushi mosque but did see some monuments in the nearby cemetery. The great thing about this class is that we visit many places far off the beaten tourist track, so that we need special permissions and guides and guards, even. The bad thing about the class is that we don't always get into the places because they are so far off the beaten tourist track that all our special permissions and guides and guards, even, aren't enough.

Here is al-Gayushi with the Muhammad Ali mosque on the Citadel in the background.

Al-Gayushi sits on the top of the hill overlooking Cairo. There is nothing much near it except for a military base, and as such the mosque is within a military zone for which permits are required. Our professor had tried to secure a permit through AUC and had been assured that the papers were in order, but after waiting an hour we learned that we would not be allowed into the mosque after all. There was much discussion between the professor and a gentleman in imposing military costume to the effect that, without a permit and with foreigners in the mix, we had better re-apply for a permit, cross our fingers and toes, and try again next time.

The places we managed to visit were the monument of the Brothers of Joseph, and Lu'lua mosque. The former is in rather ill repair and was, this morning, home to some very recently born and rather pathetic looking puppies. The latter is a three-storey mosque with three prayer rooms in a stack. This one has been restored, and thus stands out in the cemetary for its white, shiny walls.

The view from the Lu'lua mosque was impressive. Here is the direction opposite al-Gayushi. I do not know what this tower-ed structure is, but I certainly like the looks of it.

The cemetery is a strange place. It is huge, really, and I have now visited only a tiny corner of it. People live among the tombs and have done so for years, maybe even centuries, so that the ceilings of many are black from their fires. And yet, for all the people who live inside, this was one of the quietest places I have visited in Cairo. Until we returned to the city streets, that is.